Photography and Writing by Cheryl Smyth

The day after we climbed the Lookout Trail (see Look Out, We’re Climbing a Mountain), we set out early in the morning for the 4 km (2.5 mi) Tablelands Trail. Its “gentle terrain” description suited my climb-weary legs, since it would be an easy walk at the base of mountains. This is where we’d exchange the lush green vegetation of Partridgeberry Hill for orangey-brown landscape with scrubby bushes and stunted trees.

Where is Our Mars?

Parking and the trailhead sit off route 431 between the Discovery Centre and Trout River. We headed out early to avoid the tourist rush. A thinly clouded sky provided a comfortable walk. Only our footfalls and a whisper of a breeze interrupted the vast silence.

The forlorn landscape drew us, and our leashed dogs, into its otherworldly existence. I could easily imagine we travelled all the way to Mars; yet, we merely stood 4 km (2.5 mi) away from the climb of the day before. Reminding us of our earthly location, in addition to the meager offering of vegetation, was civilization in the form of the nearby highway and its accompanying hydro lines.

Peridotite is the name of the substance covering this region. It is rich in iron and magnesium, having been thrust up eons ago from the mantle of the earth. The colour results from surface oxidation.

Fight for Life

Chiseled jagged rock patterns stood out amongst the scree and detritus layering the slopes skirting the trail. The bushes and trees scattered around us looked like they have been fighting a constant battle to survive their harsh reality, with some bare branches as evidence of the battle lost. Trailing shrubs, such as the ground juniper, lie like tentacles reaching for sustenance. We came across assorted flowers, including the pitcher plant, all looking pretty against the starkness.

I was sent this information from Parks Canada: “These junipers are actually some of the oldest plants in the Tablelands, with some living to be up to 300 years old! As ice and grit have damaged its bark and disrupted the flow of water and nutrients, the shrub is indeed struggling to survive and will grow much slower.”

There’s Water in These Barren Lands

We passed over several small streams carving their way through the tough rock. At one point a narrow waterfall rushed down the hillside. Unfortunately, the hydro lines altered their route from hugging the highway to stretch across our view of the waterfall, cutting it in half-a frustrating occurrence for photographers.

Occasionally, I allowed Tessi a bit of untethered freedom, though I kept the durations brief. The bushes were small enough for her to stay in sight and I could easily see there were no loitering large creatures. She blended in quite well with the rocks because of her fur of the same colour. (From later research, I would learn that visitors are to stay on the path to protect

plant growth. Of course, the fact we were still in the park meant dogs are to be kept leashed anyway.)

A Boardwalk to Amazing

Eventually a boardwalk overtook the dirt trail. At the end, a lookout platform in Winterhouse Brook Canyon awarded us a 180 degree majestic view of mountains. I spent a bit of time taking pictures of a cascade beside the boardwalk before stopping to appreciate the scenery so impressive, leaving me feeling insignificant in its presence. Helen and Missy had already started heading back leaving Tessi and me alone in this magnificence.

We were fortunate to experience this version of Mars by ourselves, not running into anyone until our return walk. By the time we reached the parking lot, vehicles and the onslaught of people filled its capacity, which took away from the unworldly feel of the Tablelands and reminded us of our existence on Earth.

For more info:

• Tablelands
• Gross Morne National Park

(c) Cheryl Smyth, 2011

“Like” my new TC Travels page on Facebook and see more pictures of our visit to the Tablelands

Several trails snake through the landscape within a short driving distance from where we camped at Trout River in Gros Morne National Park. I was interested in one that would award outstanding scenery, yet would not be too severe on our untrained muscles. A park ranger informed me that on the Lookout Trail, there is a spectacular view of the Tableland Mountains from a section of boardwalk along the way. On the map, the route appeared to travel one way then loop to return to itself. I overlooked most of the details including the 350 m (over 1100 ft.) elevation. I only noticed that its 2-3 hour hike seemed more my style than the much longer Green Garden hike.

As is typical in parks, the dogs were to be leashed. I was agreeable to following the rule, considering we would be heading through forested sections, where unseen wildlife, including bears, exists. (If Tessi chased a bear, eventually she’d run back to me, likely with the bear following.)

A Steep Trail and a Hot Sun

The Lookout Trail starts on the backside of the Discovery Centre, heads into the forest right away and climbs up Partridgeberry Hill, which seemed like a mountain to me. I anxiously looked forward to the appearance of the boardwalk and its view. The steep trail just kept ascending. Occasionally, we rested under the leafy canopy. When we stopped in an unsheltered area, I turned around only to be startled by the lovely vision of Bonne Bay below us.

Another open area revealed a short boardwalk and the view of the orange-brown terrain of the Tableland Mountains I had been looking forward to. When a man and woman appeared behind us, we encouraged them to pass. Noticing how muscular the guy was, I realized they’d easily leave us behind.

By this time it occurred to me that we must be on our way to the summit, especially when the route continued after the boardwalk. For some reason, I thought maybe the trail looped there.

In the open, the sun radiated its heat, making me uncomfortably hot. It would be the only time on this island I would feel the warmth to that extent. A sign at the trailhead suggests taking a jacket, as the temperature is usually chillier at the top. An extra layer of clothing proved unnecessary that day.

Though I quit smoking over 20 years ago, upward climbing still stresses my lungs. Watching little Missy scale the incline herself, without Helen carrying her at all, inspired me to trudge on.

When I eventually spotted an expanse of blue sky on the elevated horizon, I was relieved. Hurray, we were almost there!

At one point, I stepped down off the trail to wet my head from a tea-coloured creek we crossed over, in an effort to cool myself off. While there, Helen handed Missy to me to see if she needed refreshment. We laughed as she splayed her legs out and laid her belly in the water.

The Meadow

When we finally reached the skyline, I was disappointed to see another section to traverse. In my sourness, I underappreciated the new scenery’s beauty-until a glimpse at my first pitcher plant, which is Newfoundland’s official flower. A few of the burgundy blooms were growing amid lush foliage on a plateau of wet meadow. The widened view of the bay fringed by mountains and blue sky served as a backdrop.

A trio of women passed us. I felt somewhat ashamed when I found out they were “taking a break” from their provincial bicycling trip to climb this “hill.” They were to return to their bikes and the road afterwards.

We followed the boardwalk, which crossed over the meadow, before reaching a short, steep scramble to a lookout platform marking the hill’s crest.

Panorama

A gorgeous 360 degree panorama opened up from the vistas revealed during our ascent. We reveled in the excellent views of Bonne Bay against the backdrop of the Long Range Mountains and Gros Morne Mountain in one direction, and the Tablelands in the other.

Helen spotted a moose and calf far below us on the grassy slope. After attempting to take pictures of the pair, which were too far away for a decent photo, I happily relaxed on the platform’s bleacher-like seats and breathed the fresh, cool, and comfortable air.

We chatted with others as they arrived and then moved on. The exception was one young couple exuding an aura of distain. They looked well organized in their properly fitted backpacks and expensive looking outdoor apparel. Silence answered our greetings. We looked like slobs compared to them; yet, we were amiable-a more important trait in my opinion.

A Quick Descent

From the platform, we spotted another trail, which I assumed must be the mysterious loop. We didn’t bother exploring it, since my empty water bottle suggested it was time to head down.

Though descending is typically easier, I just wanted to be finished. Tessi took my eagerness as a cue to switch to high gear. She practically dragged me along. I wanted to blame her for a couple of minor falls I suffered; however, they came from muddy patches I encountered too quickly.

Once back in driving mode, my leg shook whenever I moved it between gas pedal and brake. The view had been amazing though and well worth the effort. Yes, I would make the climb again without hesitation.

For more info:

• Gros Morne National Park hiking
• The pitcher plant 

(c) Cheryl Smyth, 2011

“Like” my new TC Travels page on Facebook and see more pictures of our Lookout Trail climb.

Tessi and I slopped through the ruddy-brown muck in an attempt to reach the water, where she could have a drink. Once there, she hesitated at ingesting the murky liquid. A minute or so passed before I comprehended her resistance wasn’t due to its dirtiness, but to its saltiness.

We came across this issue while exploring the Hopewell Rocks on the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick. Having lived all my life in the Great Lakes region of our country, I’ve only visited the seacoast a few times, this being the first with a dog. I never considered the water’s undrinkable aspect.

At the Hopewell Rocks, a ramble among the towering flowerpot formations on the ocean floor at low tide will reveal what the sea has left behind. When the tide is in, the water can rise over 14 m (40 ft). The area boasts one of the highest tidal systems in the world.

Busy Destination

The entranceway gate area during this sunny summer morning pulsed with people. Quite a few dogs—all leashed as per the rules—accompanied them. The rules are posted on the board at the gate and are the ones generally expressed at tourists’ destinations. The website also lists pet policies.

Once we paid and entered, I left Tessi with Helen and Missy to take a look in the gift shop in the Interpretive Centre, where dogs aren’t allowed. Not seeing anything in particular amongst the myriad of mementos, I rejoined my travelling companions and we headed on.

A ten minute walk through the woods would lead us to a staircase. This would be our transit to an unfamiliar world—the ocean floor. The woods, though steady with people, filled me with serenity. The cool air exuded crisp freshness. Having spent too much time in the car, Tessi yanked me along, anxious to explore the unfamiliar landscape. Garbage pails, which are much appreciated for poop-filled bags, were placed along the way.

When we arrived at the stairs, we found them stuffed with people. The descent was awkward with Tessi. Her distress led her to push through the throng. I found it difficult to be considerate. Thankfully, her presence was generally ignored. At least she had an easy time with most of the steps, which were solid, except for the bottom two flights. They were comprised of the grating she hates.

Once we reached the bottom, everyone spread out and the world opened up providing us with breathing room. The twisted and distorted ruddy-brown flowerpot-like formations around us boasted many shapes and contours, but most of them balance on wide bases, tapering in through the middle then widening out again. Cracks and striations give them unusual patterns. Rockweed adorns parts of their surfaces and trees sprout out of their tops. In some spots, the formations stand alone. Groups of them gather in sections and along the cliff. Looking closely at the material they are made of, it appeared concentrated dirt had cemented stones and pebbles of all shapes and forms together.

A World of Ruddy-Brown Mud

As we headed to the shoreline, the thick mud sucked and squished at our feet in an attempt to imprison them. I had noticed the warning for footwear on the sign outside the gate and am glad I heeded it by wearing my heavy sandals.

During one of our brief stops for picture taking, a young couple attempted to pass us as they struggled through the sludge. Its claim on one of the woman’s flip flops nearly succeeded as I watched her stretch the straps above her foot in an effort to pull the base out. I’m surprised the straps didn’t break. Maybe they did; we moved on leaving her to battle it out. I wonder which won, her or the mud.

After taking many pictures of anything and everything, we finally arrived at the shoreline. While pondering Tessi’s reluctance at drinking, I watched two women step into the water to wash off the grime covering their legs. I wondered if the goo would make a successful spa treatment. Helen had met up with me by then and commented to the ladies on the subject. They offered no response. Just as I realized they likely only spoke French, they talked to each other—in French.

Not accustomed to the world beyond Ontario, my assumption of fellow travellers automatically speaking English would change on this trip. I naturally wanted to comment to others about some spectacular part of the scenery around us; just to have them look at me oddly when I did. Gradually, I would comment less and smile more, all the while wishing I would remember my high school French.

Once realizing there’d be no drinks for the dogs, we continued on. We took many pictures of each other, the dogs, with and of the scenery, while delighting at its uniqueness and grandeur.

The shoreline lacked the bulk of tourists. They were concentrated up in the drier areas, where we eventually headed. We passed huge mounds of rockweed, which upon a closer inspection left me with the impression of plastic beads that could be used for children’s jewelry. In sections, barnacles lay crusted on rocks. Even a brown leafy bloom of kelp weed stranded in the ripples of mud made a pretty picture. Necklaces of rockweed hung off the sides of the formations. I took more pictures in this environment than I had of any other in a long time. The variety of textures around us amazed me. It’s hard to believe it all spends a chunk of each day under water.

We continued to thread our way through the crowds of people. The panorama around us captivated each person in his or her own way. I felt challenged to stay out of the way of cameras aimed at family, scenery, or both. I noticed a few people, including Helen, taking pictures of a girl showing off her grimy legs. So I joined in. I wondered where she and the other two women managed to become so dirty. Our group of four only boasted muddy feet. Cute little Missy looked like she donned ruddy-brown booties.

Before we found out, we felt we had toured far enough and turned back. The driving ahead of us to reach the campsite I had reserved would eat up the rest of the day. Again, keeping an anxious Tessi behaving on the stairs challenged me. At one point, she pushed into a guy, who displayed his annoyance in an unfriendly glance. I could only apologize. I soon lost him in the crowd anyway. Helen easily scooped Missy into her arms for the ascent.

Fresh Water Found

At the top of the stairs, the Low Tide Café offers refreshments. I briefly thought of buying a snack until I considered the lineups. As for water for the dogs, we found a crowded shoe cleaning station. The setup included a hose ready to spew freshwater, if we could get at it. Back at the Interpretive Centre, we found a deserted cleaning station and a dog dish. After I rinsed it out, I filled it up letting the girls lap up a needed drink. Luckily, we hadn’t been below for too long and it hadn’t been too hot. Tessi doesn’t drink a lot anyway; however, Missy likes her refreshment.

For the rest of our trip, Tessi would continue to be disappointed to find the water undrinkable at almost all the shorelines, though we would occasionally discover freshwater lakes and streams. Since we knew the dogs would be challenged for fresh drinking water, Helen and I carried bottled water wherever we hiked after our wander on the ocean floor.

Struggles through mud and quests for fresh water aside, the ocean floor and its towering sculptures left a unique impression on me that will be difficult to replace.

(c) Cheryl Smyth, 2011

An article I wrote about potential ocean hazards is published at http://www.dogsincanada.com/ocean-hazards. (As of December 2011, publication of Dogs in Canada and its website has ended.) 

Once the leaves escape the trees, leaving them bare, I usually find many hikes as dull as the scenery; yet, I was impressed with the Forks of the Credit Provincial Park in mid-November. Evergreens and bare trees protruding from leaf covered hills, a swift moving rock filled river, and a waterfall plunging into a gorge decorated the landscape. The company of other people and their dogs topped off an enjoyable day.

Tessi and I shared the outing with the group Dog Paddling Adventures (DPA), a company Eren and Kathryn Howell created in 2000, when they started with a few canoeing trips that included their dog, Jessie (husky mix), and allowed people to bring their own four-legged friends. Eren says on their website, “I have always appreciated watching the natural world, and the opportunity to share it with our pets brings a whole new perspective to the outdoors.” Eventually interest led the couple to offer hikes where dogs would be able to run free. Jessie not only participates in the outings, she holds the position of Chief Dog Operator.

The Toronto based couple plans and organizes the outings, which take place in the beautiful nature parks north of the city. All people and canines are welcome whether experienced or not (besides the most difficult canoe trips). Even the necessary equipment is provided. Length of excursions varies from one day, up to five days. Whereas canoeing keeps DPA busy throughout the summer, hiking takes up the spring and fall seasons. Winter provides skijoring and snowshoeing adventures with the group.

All these activities are available in the Forks of the Credit Provincial Park, where widely varied terrain consists of trails traversing the Niagara Escarpment and the rolling hills of the Oak Ridges Moraine. A generous variety of trees and vegetation grows in the forests we traipsed through. The park is large enough that we easily accomplished four hours of hiking, while leaving more exploration for another visit.

The fall day I signed us up for turned out to be overcast and fairly mild. I was comfortable in jeans and a couple of layers covered by a light windbreaker. Tessi was contented in her own fur as usual.

Eren greeted us right away in the parking lot and pointed out where everyone was gathering. Once I had my backpack and cameras organized, Tessi and I joined them. Eren went over what our day would entail. A couple of expert guides also joined us – Donna, with Murphy (lab) and Rosie (border collie); and Sarah, with her puppy companion, Logan (husky shepherd mix).

Each of us in the group took turns introducing our dogs and ourselves. Canine hikers ranged in size, age, and breed-from Sierra (American mastiff) to Tala and Cleo (mini schnauzers). Logan, at three months old, was the youngest, whereas some of them, such as Mike (lab cocker mix), are in their teens. The human parents, all varying in age, were mainly women; only a few men were present. Most of the group has participated with Dog Paddling Adventures before.

Liv, Mike’s human mom, is one of DPA’s returning customers. She once lived in Calgary, where she and her dog often enjoyed exploring the mountains. During one of their outings they came upon a young bear at Sunwapta Falls. After stunned stares all around, Liv and her leashed companion headed the other way before finding out if momma bear was wandering the area. Liv now calls the Niagara region home. She hasn’t found too many dog friendly places yet, though she says there are a lot of pretty little parks.

Sarah and I talked about various topics on and off throughout the day. She had also lived in Calgary, mentioning that coyotes are a concern in addition to bears. Now she lives in Toronto, where she enjoys taking Logan to the dog park at The Beaches, a lakeside community and well-known tourist destination in the city.

I had plenty of opportunity to chat to my fellow hikers as the day carried on. Carolyn, April’s (husky shepherd mix) mom, told me how April had been bitten the year before in a Toronto off-leash park. Carolyn had been gradually getting her used to other dogs again, purposely waiting to join a large group such as Dog Paddling Adventures. While Carolyn and I talked, I could tell April was a little anxious around some of the dogs; however, with Carolyn’s guidance she settled into a pleasant walk.

Sierra had her own issues to work through. She had gotten lost on a previous outing, but was soon found. Her mom, Debbie, thought maybe she’d stay close this time. They were together every time I noticed them. The guides, equipped with two-way radios, disperse themselves throughout the group. They can quickly check with one another if anyone or any dog is missing.

Tessi, as usual, zipped around trees, bushes and hikers (human and canine), only pausing to beg for treats and to sniff through foliage. Every so often I’d have to call her back if I lost track of her while I was conversing with others.

A few of the dogs had a romp in a pond we passed. I enjoyed watching the big-bodied Sierra frolicking in the water like a child. Debbie had mentioned she doesn’t swim; however, the water was shallow enough for some fun.

We took a brief break where a couple of trails meet. Eren headed us toward the platform overlooking Credit Falls where, for the first time that day, our group spread out. I tended to lag behind because of my picture taking.

We took a longer break at the platform. If Tessi and I had been on our own, I would have, if possible, headed to the bottom of the falls for some exploration. As if Tessi knows my interests, she started heading that way as we approached the platform. While we appreciated the view from above, Eren handed out snacks consisting of GORP*, candies, and Kool-Aid. He had recommended we bring water for ourselves.

After Eren took a group photograph, we headed on. Having a minor issue with my own camera put me way behind the group. Eren and one of guys walked in sight ahead of me. While Tessi ran back and forth between us, I tried to catch up. Interesting photo opportunities of scenic hills and patterns in the grass kept me behind though.

The trail eventually returned to the Credit River, where soon the woods opened to reveal a grassy field. I paused to take pictures of the dogs running and jumping through the long grass.

We stopped for lunch by the shallow, fast moving river where a wall of trees loomed as a backdrop. The guides set out a selection of food items, such as lunch meat, cheese, and buns on a flat part of a tree. We had our pets leashed as previously requested; no one wanted them eating our hard earned lunch. They had had a lot of goodies along the way, since we had been encouraged to help ourselves to Eren’s stash of dog treats. They were offered the leftovers after we ate.

Our afternoon tour would reveal the park’s steeper climbs. Twenty years of being smoke-free means little when I ascend steep hills. One of our fellow hikers had the right idea by pausing a few times to take pictures, giving her lungs respite from the climb.

We settled into a fairly level hike where our footsteps crunched the dead leaves carpeting the forested floor. Partway through the afternoon, a couple of the dogs were found a little too close to some animal excrement. I saw one dog’s fur was smeared with brown that smelled quite stinky. I felt sorry for the dog’s mom; yet, to be honest, I had that instinctive reaction of relief Tessi had not been the one in the situation. About 10 minutes later I caught Tessi rolling in some excrement herself. The rest of my day would be filled with her repulsing aroma. I tried rinsing her with the rest of my bottled water. I’ve always known to carry water when hiking, but never thought of its uses beyond satisfying thirst. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough to rid her of the icky substance.

As we carried on with our nature tour, hope of a larger water source appearing kept me distracted. Nevertheless, I continued to chat with some of the others, such as Andrea and John Ackroyd while their dogs Amy Jay (border collie) and Daphne Rose (cocker spaniel), along with Tessi, dashed back and forth ahead us. The couple is from Oakville and quite often run their dogs at their local dog park.

On the last leg of our hike, we reached the pond we had encountered earlier in the day. I gave Tessi a rinse with a piece of cloth I happened to have on me.

Back at the parking lot, as I wiped Tessi off with an old towel generously given to me, I thought about how gratifying it had been to have someone else plan an outing. I could enjoy the walk while letting others worry about where we were going. I also appreciated being sent directions beforehand to assist in finding the parking area. I’ve spent too many trips getting lost on my way to parks and in parks.

Time moves on and soon snow will blanket Forks of the Credit Provincial Park and the rest of our countryside. Dog Paddling Adventures will bring out the skis and snowshoes as they abandon themselves to the winter landscape. In no time at all, green will sprout everywhere bringing the heat of summer. People and their canoes, including DPA and its customers, will be found paddling our province’s many rivers. No matter the time of year, a person and his or her canine companion can find interesting ways to enjoy the outdoor scenery.

For more info:

• www.dogpaddlingadventures.com
• http://www.ontarioparks.com/English/fork.html

*The acronym GORP stands for Good Old Raisins and Peanuts, but is informally used to name any mixture of nuts, dried fruits, seeds and such eaten as a high energy snack during outdoor activities such as hiking.

(c) Cheryl Smyth, 2009

Pictures Eren had taken during our hike can be found at:

http://www.dogpaddlingadventures.com/trippicsnov152009.html